By Riddhi Agarwal
In recent years, fast fashion has been booming in the consumer market. Fast fashion refers to mass production of cheap, trendy clothing, which hits the selves quickly to meet the new style demands. Fast fashion offers low quality items at a much cheaper rate. While this might seem like a win for the consumers, the reality is that this has been adversely affecting the environment. Even though this industry might be good on the pockets of the consumers but it is a great cost for the laborers as well as the environment.
Understanding Fast Fashion
Fast fashion is often regarded as low-quality clothing that is produced swiftly to keep pace with the latest industry trends and is offered at extremely low prices. While the financial cost to consumers is minimal, the repercussions for textile workers and the environment are significant. The affordability of fast fashion stems from inadequate wages for workers. Garments are typically poorly constructed, frequently bought, seldom worn, and rapidly discarded. Research indicates that the average piece of clothing is worn merely 14 times, and a 2019 report by The Guardian highlighted that one in three young women viewed an item worn only once or twice as outdated.The biggest players in the fast fashion world include Zara, Shein, UNIQLO, Forever 21, and H&M.
Environmental Impact
The environmental consequences of fast fashion are profoundly alarming. This sector ranks among the foremost contributors to global carbon emissions, accounting for 10% of the world’s carbon footprint—surpassing the combined emissions of aviation and shipping, as reported by the UN Environment Programme. This significant impact is largely attributed to the swift production and distribution of garments from factories in developing nations to retail outlets across the globe.
Moreover, fast fashion promotes a culture of rapid disposal, resulting in a higher volume of clothing being thrown away. Such waste ultimately finds its way into landfills, exacerbating pollution and environmental deterioration. Research indicates that 87% of the materials utilized in garment manufacturing are ultimately discarded in landfills. For instance, cotton, a key material in denim production, necessitates substantial water usage. Levi Strauss & Co. estimates that the production of a single pair of jeans requires approximately 3,800 liters of water throughout its lifecycle. In regions like India, where water scarcity poses a critical challenge, the textile industry is responsible for around 20% of industrial water consumption, further compounding environmental issues.
The ecological impact also encompasses the use of chemicals and dyes in the textile manufacturing process, which, if inadequately regulated, can contaminate water supplies and present health hazards to local communities.
Comparison With Other Industries
The environmental implications of fast fashion are particularly alarming when juxtaposed with other sectors. While the aviation industry frequently faces scrutiny for its carbon footprint, it contributes a significantly smaller share to global emissions compared to the fashion sector. In contrast to industries such as aviation, which are subject to stringent regulations and are actively pursuing sustainable practices, the fashion industry operates with minimal oversight regarding its environmental effects. Sustainable fashion offers a viable alternative, promoting the ethical procurement of materials and environmentally friendly production techniques. This approach prioritizes quality over quantity, urging consumers to reduce their purchases and invest in long-lasting products. Nevertheless, the fast fashion paradigm persists, perpetuating an unsustainable cycle of consumption.
Steps Taken In India
Sustainable Fashion Policy: In 2020, the Ministry of Textiles inaugurated National Handloom Day under the theme “Handloom for Atmanirbhar Bharat”. This initiative seeks to advance sustainable fashion and textiles, bolster local artisans, and mitigate the environmental effects associated with the fashion industry.
Extended Producer Responsibility: In 2018, the Ministry of Environment, Forest and Climate Change released a notification that established Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for the management of plastic waste. This regulation holds manufacturers and brand owners accountable for the collection and disposal of their products once they have reached the end of their useful life.
Textile Waste Management: The Ministry of Textiles has introduced various initiatives to enhance the management of textile waste. Among these is the SwachhtaSaarthi Fellowship, designed to educate young individuals in the field of textile waste management. Additionally, the Green Wardrobe Initiative promotes the donation and recycling of old garments by consumers.
National Green Tribunal: The National Green Tribunal (NGT) is a statutory body in India that deals with environmental issues, including those related to fast fashion.It is a specialized body equipped with the necessary expertise to handle environmental disputes involving multi-disciplinary issues.
Case Study: Shanti Textile Industry vs Rajasthan Pollution Control Board
The case of Shanti Textile Industry vs Rajasthan Pollution Control Board was brought before the National Green Tribunal (NGT) on December 21, 2021. The dispute centered on allegations that Shanti Textile Industry was not adhering to environmental regulations established to safeguard ecological health. The Rajasthan Pollution Control Board (RPCB) highlighted violations related to industrial operations, wastewater management, and pollution control norms.
Issues Raised
1. Is the Shanti Textile Industry in compliance with environmental standards?
2. Has the industry caused environmental degradation, particularly to water bodies and local ecosystems?
3. Is the Shanti Textile Industry failing to implement necessary pollution control measures, such as effluent treatment plants (ETPs)?
4. What are the consequences for the industry due to its non-compliance with environmental regulations?
5.What steps should the Shanti Textile Industry take to restore damaged ecosystems and prevent further violations?
Proceedings
The NGT reviewed the complaints, submissions from both parties, and existing evidence, including reports from environmental inspections conducted by the RPCB. The tribunal emphasized the need for strict compliance with environmental regulations and accountability for industrial pollution.
Decision
Shanti Textile Industry was instructed to install necessary pollution control mechanisms, such as functioning ETPs, to treat effluents before discharge.
The tribunal imposed a fine on the industry for its non-compliance and environmental harm caused by its activities.
The RPCB was directed to regularly monitor the operations of Shanti Textile Industry to ensure adherence to environmental norms.
The industry was ordered to contribute to the restoration of damaged ecosystems and take preventive measures to avoid future violations.
Greenwashing
Greenwashing poses a significant challenge in the fast fashion sector. It involves companies making inflated or misleading assertions regarding the ecological benefits of their products. Such practices not only deceive consumers but also undermine authentic sustainability initiatives. For instance, numerous fast fashion brands promote their offerings as “eco-friendly” or “sustainable” without providing credible evidence to support these assertions. This situation leads to confusion among consumers, who are increasingly inclined to make environmentally conscious decisions but are misled by companies prioritizing marketing over genuine environmental advancements.
Legal Framework in India
Advertising Standards Council of India
ASCI has also proposed draft guidelines on Environmental/Green Claims earlier in November 2023. These guidelines state that terms such as “environmentally friendly,” “eco-friendly,” “sustainable,” and “planet-friendly,” suggesting that the promoted product has minimal or positive environmental effects, should be backed by substantial evidence.
Bureau of Indian Standards, 2016
Under BIS Act, 2016 (replacing BIS Act, 1986), deals with standardization and certification of goods, services, etc. ECO Mark Scheme was instituted by the Government of India for labelling of environment friendly products. The Scheme covers an array of products including FMCG. To administer the Scheme, BIS has included supplementary criteria for the ECO Mark within the relevant Indian Standards. BIS conducts enforcement actions to prevent the unauthorized use of the Standard Mark or its imitation by unscrupulous traders and manufacturers lacking a valid BIS license.
Eco Mark
Eco Mark, also known as Eco Label, is a symbol applied to ecologically friendly products complying with the requirements of the Eco Mark Scheme.
The Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) administers the Eco Mark Scheme in accordance with the BIS Act of 1986. This scheme establishes the eligibility criteria, evaluates, and certifies products that manufacturers may label with the Eco Mark. Initiated by the government in 1991, the Eco Mark Scheme serves as an eco-labeling initiative aimed at recognizing products that are environmentally friendly. It is a voluntary labeling system that designates consumer products as environmentally friendly based on defined quality and environmental standards. A product that is produced, discarded, or utilized in a manner that significantly mitigates environmental impact is classified as environmentally friendly.. These products have less potential for pollution during their life cycle, i.e. raw material, use, manufacture, and disposal.
An earthen pot is the logo of the Eco Mark, signifying the usage of renewable resources, like clay, which consumes less energy and does not have hazardous waste. It represents the strength and fragility which characterises the ecosystem.
Some Cases of Greenwashing
- Godrej Consumer Products Limited vsInitiative Media Advertising
In 2012, Godrej Industries asserted in its marketing campaign that its Good Knight Fast Card mosquito repellent was “100% natural” and “chemical-free.” Nevertheless, the Advertising Standards Council of India (ASCI) found this assertion to be inaccurate and deceptive.
- Hindustan Unilever Limited (HUL)
A prominent player in the fast-moving consumer goods sector promoted its product, ‘Surf Excel Easy Wash’ detergent, as being “100% natural” and “environmentally friendly,” even though it included synthetic components. In 2011, the Indian government, via the Ministry of Environment and Forests, initiated legal action against Hindustan Unilever Limited (HUL) for allegedly making misleading claims in its marketing. As a result, HUL was penalized with a fine of INR 10 lakhs by the Central Pollution Control Board.
- Godrej Soaps Ltd vs Union of India & Ors
In 2015, Godrej Consumer Products Limited faced criticism for misleading assertions concerning the environmental advantages of its Godrej No. 1 soap. The company’s promotional materials claimed that the soap was “100% natural,” “biodegradable,” and “ecofriendly,” despite the presence of synthetic components.
Conclusion
Fast fashion offers consumers access to affordable and stylish apparel, yet it poses considerable adverse effects on the environment and labor standards. This sector is a major contributor to global carbon emissions, excessive water consumption, pollution, and waste, thereby intensifying environmental deterioration. Although the prices are low for consumers, the actual burden is placed on workers who endure inadequate pay and hazardous working conditions, frequently in developing nations.
In India, various legislative measures have been introduced to tackle these challenges, including sustainable fashion policies, extended producer responsibility, and textile waste management initiatives. The involvement of theNational Green Tribunal in enforcing environmental laws highlights the necessity for accountability within the industry.
Nevertheless, issues such as greenwashing remain prevalent, with companies misleadingly portraying themselves as environmentally conscious, which confuses consumers and detracts from genuine sustainability efforts. The imperative for systemic transformation is evident: industries must adopt sustainable practices, and consumers need to be informed to make educated decisions. The cooperation of regulatory agencies, consumers, and industries is crucial for fostering a more sustainable fashion sector that mitigates its environmental footprint and enhances labour conditions, ultimately promoting a healthier planet and a fairer global economy.
—Riddhi Agarwal is a second-year LLB student of Thakur Ramnarayan College of Law